The Naples Pizza Pilgrimage Worth Standing in Line For

Neapolitan pizza is not trying to be neat. The center is meant to be wet, the crust is meant to be charred and pillowy, and you are meant to fold it and eat with your hands.

The line moves faster than it looks. Get the margherita and the marinara — no cheese, just tomato, garlic, oregano, and oil — and understand that simplicity, done at this level, is the hardest thing in cooking.

It costs less than a coffee in some cities. That, more than anything, is the magic of Naples.